After interviewing Steve Sterling and visiting the family’s Cole Ranch property on assignment for Sommelier Journal, we stopped by the winery and picked up some samples. Later that week I opened the box and pulled out the 2005 Esterlina Syrah Janian Vineyard Sonoma Mountain Syrah and grimaced. I am a huge fan of Rhone Valley Syrah and Southern Rhone Syrah blends, not to mention Tuscan Syrah, but the track record for California has been very, very poor, except for a handful of small producers using cool climate fruit and a gentle touch rather than a steamroll approach with winemaking (see my faves in Great Boutique Wines You Can Buy Online, in the Syrah chapter).

Syrah, like Pinot Noir, is all about finesse. When the alcohol hits 14.5% or higher, which is often the case with these smasher blaster wines we are barraged with, finesse is no longer in the picture. Overripe Syrah that is then heavily oaked doesn’t even taste like wine any more; it tastes like fish juice. But this little gem was a complete and utter surprise. My first clue that things were looking up was the alcohol indication on the label – a mere 13%. Then I poured it into my INAO tasting glass, examined it, and hoped for the best. When I took my first sniff I was momentarily stunned. Was that Rhone-like varietal character? Was that sultry dark berry fruit, smoked bacon, pink rose petal, and earth? Yes! Yes! Yes! They’ve hit the bull’s eye on this one.

The Janian Vineyard (prounounced JANE-ian) is a steep, well-drained vineyard above the fog line on Sonoma Mountain. It may not be as steep as the roasted slope, Cote Rotie, but the results are strikingly similar. The only difference was a bit of sweet oak that dissipated with aeration. $30. www.esterlinavineyards.com

Two weeks ago I was the invited guest speaker at a Women for WineSense Winemakers Roundtable. This group of female winemakers, proprietors, and marketing folks wanted my input on how to sell wine to sommeliers, and I gave them an earful! On the way out, Gundlach Bundschu winemaker Linda Trotta handed me a bottle of this wine, the 2005 Gundlach Bundschu Pinot Rhinefarm Vineyard Sonoma Valley. It had been a while since I tasted anything from this eclectic winery. My last visit is still kind of blurry. Something to do with Gewurtraminer and Tequila. This wine, however, is crystal clear in its expression of varietal and terroir, and very nice surprise.

Rhinefarm Vineyard has been in the family for 150 years, and sits at the southernmost point in Sonoma Valley on the southwesterly slopes of the Mayacamas range.  The Pinot Noir blocks are on the lowest part, adjacent to the Carneros appellation border. 39% of the fruit is from a block planted in 1970 with Wente and Hanzell clones, and the rest comes from a ten-year old block planted with Pommard and Dijon clones. The wine is incredibly complex with aromas of strawberry jam, sour cherry preserves, fig, lilac, turned soil, osso bucco, and cedar spice. On the palate it is classically round and silky with luscious layers of fruit, spice and earth, like a vinous Red Velvet cake. It is beautifully balanced and rather understated. $38. www.gunbun.com

Long before the dollar tanked I promoted Spanish rose wines for their fresh style and bargain basement prices. This release, the 2007 Tapena Rose Tierra de Castilla, Spain is another winner. Vibrant salmon pink in color, this bright, fresh wine has notes of wild strawberry, raspberry, watermelon, and green apple. It is not light and crisp like many cooler climate wines as it is from the warm plains in Southern Spain, yet doesn’t feel heavy or cloying like many new world, especially Californian versions. Think of biting into a super sweet piece of watermelon, and then sipping cool water with lemon slices. $10. www.tapenawines.com